Farewell to Iraq, Day 12

Farewell to My Friends in Iraq: Day 12 by Steve Clemens

We deliberately left the last day fairly unscheduled so we could begin the process of packing – especially all the gifts we were given by the Iraqis we met. We’ve been given pens, keychains, a mirror, a crystalline sculpture, books, jewelry, prayer beads and holy Karbala mud-stones. I purchased an Iraqi flag for the student we help support at Augsburg College as well as a wall map of Iraq – labeled all in Arabic. I’ve gotten a few other small gifts but I’d rather leave any extra money I have for the work of the Muslim Peacemaker Team.

I tell my friends before another Iraqi delegation comes to Minneapolis, I will have to take a convoy driving class and practice lurching forward, slamming on the brakes, blowing the car horn, nosing out other vehicles and totally ignoring all traffic lanes – all to make our Iraqi visitors feel at home once they are in the Twin Cities. This trip has been very instructive to those of us on the IARP Board to realize how over-structured we’ve scheduled our guests when they are in Minnesota. After feeling we had little time to catch our breath here, we now have a much better understanding of the rigors we’ve put others through, especially after the recovery period from jet-lag.

It will take me some time to reflect and collect my thoughts about this experience. We’ve witnessed both some of the challenges our friends encounter as well as the myriad harbingers of hope. Najaf is both very conservative and relatively safe so it is difficult to see it as the same as the entire country. Certainly listening to Cathy Breen’s stories of visiting friends she made before the war or as refugees who have now returned has been quite sobering. Yet despite those obstacles, she still has been overwhelmed by her gracious acceptance into many homes and workplaces. The fact that she has been able to travel alone (with the help of MPT) is testament to both her fortitude, courage, and determination. Her Catholic Worker experience in New York City has helped her cope in a multitude of situations.

We’ve benefited by being an eclectic delegation for this trial run. Fletcher and Joan Hinds from Duluth brought both their experience with Kurdish delegations but also Fletcher’s high energy and ability to connect with others, especially some of the young male drivers we’ve had these 12 days. David Smith’s encyclopedic knowledge of world religions as well as Biblical history has helped all of us get a better picture from the times of Nebuchadnezzar  and Ezekiel, the Tower of Babel and early Jewish and Christian history here to couple what we are learning of Islamic and Arabic history. Joan Haan has been a godsend in connecting with new people and Deborah Kalin’s passion for the empowerment of women and her determination to help document this delegation’s experience on video are valuable additions. And Kathy McKay, the organizer, spokesperson, and leader of our group has been freeing for all of us. But none of this could have happened without the planning and commitment of Sami Rasouli and his colleagues from MPT.

We will all bring back our unique perspectives and interpretations of what we experienced here. An obvious next step is to help nurture the budding partnerships with educational intuitions both here and there as well as new business ventures and potential NGO collaborations. People in Najaf are ready to move on from the Saddam era as well as the disastrous wars and sanctions. Highway intersections are under construction, new hotels, restaurants, housing, and other developments are evident all over - yet there still is the deficit of reliable electricity, potable water, trash pick-up and disposal, … Questions about corruption in the government linger as many fear a culture of favoritism continues – only with new faces replacing Saddam or tribal sheiks. At least from our perspective, the challenges for women in the culture are significant if not monumental.

But what sticks out most for me are the broad, genuine smiles, the hugs, the kissing on the cheeks (although strictly along same gender lines!) when we connect with those who had the courage to visit us first. We have been welcomed, honored, and appreciated –so, whatever the challenges, the human spirit is rising to the occasion. I hope it will not be another 10 years before I am able to return to further experience this land and her people. If we are “sisters” as cities, we need to continue to deepen the relationship. Maybe next Spring, another delegation will come? 

Generosity. Day 10 in Iraq

Generosity: Iraq Day 10 by Steve Clemens

The dinner was held in one of Najaf’s best restaurants according to the former owner of Sinbad’s in south Minneapolis who sold his business to return to help his home nation rebuild during the war. Sami Rasouli and another member of his Muslim Peacemaker Team escorted us to the Holy Shrine of Imam Hussein in Karbala, about an hours drive north of Najaf if one doesn’t allow for the 4-5 checkpoints we must encounter on the 80 kilometer trip. After returning to Najaf and seated at the restaurant, Joan and I were chatting with Mohammed across the table. Mohammed mentioned to me that he had liked what I had written in my blogs which he found cross-posted on my Facebook page and then asked Joan if the “Joan Haan” on his Facebook search was her page. After she affirmed that she was, he sent her a “friend request” and they were connected on Facebook.

Joan, in her direct manner, looked at Mohammed and asked him why his name appeared as “Eng Mohammed” on her screen, commenting that it was a name she hadn’t heard before in Arabic. I said I thought it stood for “engineer” and Mohammed laughed and said, “Yes, I’m an engineer”. With so many Mohammeds, Alis, Ahmeds, etc here, other abbreviations are in order - just like one of my other new friends, Ahmed, who has tacked “Pre” on to his Facebook name because he is a Petrochemical Resources Engineer in his paying job. Then Joan suggested we talk face-to-face rather than text each other across the table. Light-hearted conversation continued through the meal and it wasn’t until the tea was served that conversation for us got serious very quickly.

Our host, a very successful contractor who has made a significant amount of money recently in helping rebuild Najaf since 2004, stood up as Sami translated. The first words were quite shocking to me: “Before you came here, the US was known as the #1 killer of Iraqis. But you came in peace. And today you did the most difficult thing in taking the time and effort to visit the Shrine of Imam Hussein. It shows that you come as friends and God is bringing us all closer together. Now children and adults [here in Najaf] can see a new face of Americans. You came and provided water filters with Sami under the Water For Peace, you sent letters to schoolchildren. Now reconciliation is happening.”

Joan leaned over the table to have better eye contact with our host. “Actually you, with your words to us have initiated this reconciliation with us. And we are so very grateful for your kind words.” All of us in the delegation are acutely aware of how dangerous this reconciling work can be – for both sides. There are those who want to keep us apart, who profit by our animosity and the weapons produced to “protect” ourselves from the other. For Iraqis, they risk being seen as collaborators with the nation whose “Shock and Awe” campaign was designed to force an immediate cowering surrender. For American peacemakers, we risk getting identified with “Muslims”, “terrorists”, and the “other”.

Only as we reach out and offer the olive branch to each other, to look across the table and see the other as our sister, our brother can that healing salve of reconciliation be allowed to help relieve the festering boil of resentment and retaliation. “Reconciliation is now happening”, our host continued. “You’ve come here to help us [with water filters, letters for peace, …], now that Sami has helped me secure a visa [for travel to the US], maybe I can come to your country and help you.” He continued, remarking about people losing homes to foreclosure and other ills in the US.

And then he gave us the invitation: next time, don’t wait for the Governor’s invitation. You don’t even need to contact the Governor – I’m inviting you, I’ll put you up. I want you to return –soon!

It was a long day. The trip to Karbala dusty. I was tired, full, ready to stretch out on my bed and think about what I could write for my blog today. In those brief minutes, with those heartfelt words, I/we were revived. Sami said in his translation, “His heart is full of love and he just keeps repeating how glad he is to be here with you.” This is what the Iraqi & American Reconciliation Project is all about: getting on with the business of healing peoples whose heart has been broken and now want to be whole again. Thank you Hussein for opening your heart to us. May we always be ready to reciprocate in kind.     

Planting Peace on Day 9

Planting Peace on Day 9 in Najaf, Iraq by Steve Clemens

The interpreter called me aside saying, “Mr. Steve, this man would like to ask you a question”, after we had just planted 70 trees in the street median of the Salam District of Najaf, Iraq’s Sister City to Minneapolis. The young man in his 20s, the left side of his face obviously indented and scarred, looked at me and asked through the interpreter, “Do you know a humanitarian organization that can help me [fix my facial injuries]? I was injured by the Americans while I was a student at the University.” I told him I was sorry for his injury and I would ask others when I returned to the US.

This happened after a busy morning and afternoon. The session in the morning was held at a women’s development organization (NGO) led by Dr. Batool, one of the 25% of the Iraqi Parliament who were elected as women. (The Constitution of Iraq mandates a minimum of 25% females in the legislature.) The women among our Minnesota delegation were hoping for a more intimate conversation about women’s concerns in both Iraq and especially the conservative area of Najaf. However all the interpreters were male and the program was moderated by a man. It was my hope to give the women the space they needed for this important dialog, much of which happened out of my hearing during lunch.

Many of us felt the conversation was cut short in order to leave for our next appointment and then we waited for the trees and the Plant A Tree Team to arrive. But it was worth the wait. When the young people arrived with the 70 Iraqi-type of locust trees (raised in Kuwait), we quickly sprang into action. One man dug a hole in the sandy soil of the median strip between at least 3 lanes of traffic on each side (as if traffic actually stayed in designated lanes!). The holes were at least a meter from the last or next plant. A seedling tree about 12-15” high was removed from the plastic bag which protected the root ball. Then either an American or an Iraqi gently placed the young tree into the hole while the other scooped damp sandy soil around the roots.

Cameras clicked to capture the moment; traffic slowed to see what was happening; the Plant a Tree members held a sign: “Plant a Tree … harvest peace”. The city manager who helps provide the trees came by to greet us and have his photo taken alongside us and the Team.

After we finished and posed for a group photo, I asked Ahmed, the group’s coordinator and obvious animator if there were any young women who were part of this organization. He smiled a little sheepishly at first and then pointed to the 2-year old daughter of one of his Team who had indeed helped us push sand into the hole and said, “One”. I encouraged him to recruit more. He inquired if there were any NGOs in the US that might partner with them, I told him there are many environmental groups in the US and we should look for them together with our Facebook connections.

I’ve read numerous accounts of US troops bulldozing down hundreds of date palm trees here in their rush to control the landscape and people in 2003. Our 70 trees are just a small symbolic part of our repentance and a beginning journey of reparations coupled with a genuine desire for partnership as we move forward toward a greener and more peaceful world. 

Bridge Building on Day 7

Bridge Building: Day 7 In Iraq. By Steve Clemens

The day started with Kathy getting fashion tips from Hiba. She fixes Kathy’s hijab first and then goes to adjust Joan’s but decides Joan has already learned how to do it the proper way! Although Fr. David has a lot of experience in Palestine, Iraq, and other Middle Eastern locations, one of the staff at the guest house insists on wearing the keffeyah differently. David allows for the adjustment although I’m sure it was just a matter of local preference.

After an hour of shopping in the souk of the old city, we were invited to lunch at the Guest House of the Shrine of Ali. A simple meal, very tasty and sufficient. Then we are told that our friend Zuhair wishes to greet us nearby. I knew Zuhair as the head of the Najaf Chamber of Commerce, but he seems to wear many hats around here. After being escorted into the large reception room behind the Shrine of Imam Ali, we are served tea, water, and coffee as we sat around visiting. Then Zuhair shows us the model of the on-going and planned construction around the Shrine to accommodate the millions of visitors who come each year. Under Saddam there was little improvements allowed in this section of the bold city we are told but since 2005 there are ambitious plans for improvements to this third holiest site for Shia Muslims. Zuhair also gifts us with a book translating a message from Imam Ali about the role and style of leadership before inviting us to his office upstairs. Only then does it dawn on me that having an office in this building means he has a very significant role at the Shire and we learn he is on the Board of Directors and is helping oversee part of the $600 million construction project using his capacity as an engineer and businessman.

After a very engaging visit with him, we hustle back to our transport vehicles to get to the bridge crossing the Euphrates in Kufa for our Bridge Vigil in solidarity with the on-going Lake Street Bridge Vigil which happens every Wednesday afternoon/evening in Minneapolis. I brought along a rainbow striped “PEACE” flag and the Muslim Peacemaker Team had numerous other banners made with messages such as “Plant a Tree … Harvest Peace”, “Iraqi people are our brothers and sisters”, “Minneapolis is our Sister City”, Najaf is our Sister City”, “If you want peace, join us”, “Peace begins with me … and You”, “Kindness is Charity”, “Allah is Peace … Peace is Islam”.

On the bridge, traffic moved slowly so I was able to call out “Salaam” or “Salaam Alekium”, peace and peace be upon you, smiling broadly in friendship and hope. Several stopped and asked where I was from and I told them “America” and the at-first puzzled look gradually turned to a smile and the young man said, “Good! shukran” (thank you). I remembered my inaugural demonstration in Baghdad almost 10 years ago in front of the United Nations Development Office shortly before President Bush commenced this destructive war. We were supporting Hans Blix and the UN weapons inspectors rather than the mad rush to war. I held a “No War” sign on Abu Nuwas Street facing the traffic on that busy Baghdad artery and saw faces smile and horns blowing in support. I had the same feeling tonight, looking into the faces of Iraqis, no longer an “enemy” as we work hard to become both friends and peacemakers together. With the able partnership of the Muslim Peacemaker Team we are making inroads in our demands for a culture od peace. We can always use more “fellow travelers” on the road to reconciliation. 

A Day of Service - Day 6 in Iraq

A Day of Service: Day 6 Back in Iraq by Steve Clemens

The action was purely symbolic. After our tax dollars were spent creating rubble in this land of early civilization, it is time Americans started cleaning up the mess that was created by our destructive obsessions. Picking up litter and debris from a neighborhood street is designed as a symbolic act of repentance (I didn’t pack sackcloth in my suitcase for this trip) as well as an act of humility for Americans who came as conquerors rather than partners.

Members of the Muslim Peacemaker Team as well as a representative of the NGO organizing Najaf as the 2012 Cultural Capital of the Islamic World joined with us in picking up in the neighborhood where Sami Rasouli resides. I was honored to have his youngest son, Omer, just turned 5 years old, as my partner. He held the trash bag as I picked up and then I held it for him. Several of the neighbors came out to see what we were doing and some wanted to take photos as well.

Sami described the virtually non-existent garbage collection process for neighborhoods which are not part of the downtown tourist area and remarked, “If you are a Prince and I am a Prince, who will lead the donkey?” as an explanation why many men in the Arab culture stand by and let the women do a lot of the work. He hopes to break the stereotype and Omer was eager to join us.

Actually today was a day which called for a lot of flexibility. We no longer had access to the Foreign Ministry’s vehicles for today so MPT secured some 4 seat pick-up trucks and some cars to transport us with MPT members as drivers. Last night we decided that today we would go to a school as a brief stop before our service project to distribute the letters Jess Sundin gave me from her daughter Leila’s class. The original plan was for ½ the group to go to the girls elementary school and the other half to the boys school across the street but we all ended up at the girls school.

After being greeted by a supervisor/inspector from the Education Ministry, the Principal told us she had a brother who lives in Minnesota who is married to a woman from Lebanon. She welcomed us and introduced us to one of the teachers of English. I read the letter Jess had written to the school and Sami translated it so all could understand and showed them the photo of the Leila’s class. The teacher suggested we give the letter to the sixth grade English class since the students would better be able to read the English words.

The girls smiled broadly and greeted us as we entered and Sami asked me to say a few words before distributing the 16 letters. Since there weren’t enough letters for the approximately 25 girls, the teacher handed them out to each recipient. Each “letter” had a dove on the backside which the American students had decorated. That small gesture of reaching out to other students will hopefully help these future leaders of Iraq see at least some Americans in a different light than the fear and anger they experienced during the occupation.

The plan was to do the trash pickup and then travel to the local Al Sadr organization – a “Black Panther-style nationalist” group who show their solidarity with the poor by service programs. By their opponents they are mostly know for their militancy but by those who receive necessary aid, they become heroes. Alas, it was not to happen today as our schedule kept slipping. The school visit, designed for 20 minutes lasted almost an hour and then we walked nearby to see where Sami and his family lives. Their baby had been fussy the other evening so we missed seeing Suad and Roi’ea but we got to spend time with them this morning. The home is simple but welcoming.

Sami explained to us how the water filter works in his home. First he filled a small bowl with filtered water from his wall-mounted unit and then a second bowl of water from the tap – city water from Najaf. After it set for a minute and both appeared to the naked eye to be alike, Sami put a saline tester into first the filtered water, then the tap. As he was doing this, he explained that 1-120 was acceptable for drinking. The filtered water scored 31 and the initial reading for the tap water was a little over 120. Sami said, “Oh, I should have shaken the filtered water out of the device before measuring but even before he could, Deborah, who was filming this “experiment” exclaimed, “Wait, Sami, the numbers are continuing to go up!” She counted over 200, over 300, up and up until it stopped at 986. But Sami wasn’t finished his demonstration. He next took an electrolyzer, similar to an immersable hot water heater, placed it in the cup of filtered water and plugged it in. As it heated the water toward boiling, it grew amber in color from the minerals in the water reacting to the heat. Next the tap water. As it heated up, it grew darker and darker until almost pitch black. He removed the electrolyzer, stirred the tap water and we were both amazed and horrified as he said, “Many of the poor families have only this to drink because they can’t afford a filter or the bottled water.

Sobered by the stark inequalities, I still needed to demonstrate my faith in the water filters that my wife Christine and I have contributed toward under the IARP Water For Peace program. I asked Sami if I could drink a glass of his filtered water and he handed me a glass filled to the brim. It tasted fine, and now, eight hours later I am still fine. Others in the group might not have been ready to drink up but a half an hour later when Suad, ever the gracious hostess brought it a tray full of glasses of filtered water, almost all the others drank as well. I’m convinced this Water For Peace project is a life-saver.

After learning about the present realities of trash pick up and sanitation in Najaf from Sami, we did our service project, washed up thoroughly afterwards and then walked to lunch since it was now too late to meet with the al Sadr people.

The sumptuous meal took quite a while of our afternoon, having to move from one table to another for our desert and then wait for the tea to be served at the end. By the time we left the restaurant, it was time for our bridge vigil to begin but we did not bring the signs with us. The original plan had us returning to the guest house for a rest before the vigil. Instead, Sami asked if he could drive us to one of Najaf’s poorest neighborhoods. When delegations from Iraq come to Minneapolis, the city tour they receive does not usually include either the near Northside or Phillips Neighborhoods. I know Islamic Cultural Capital folk won’t include this neighborhood either but Sami wants us to see all sides of the reality of Iraq today. After all, if our guest house is a former Saddam palace, we need to experience the other side as well.

Sami takes us to the home of a man who worked as his gardener several years ago. He graciously invites us in and brings carpet for us to sit alongside the walls of his courtyard/garage because the lights have gone out in his house and he is not on the private generator list for the supplement. Actually, no one is on the list in this neighborhood because you don’t see all the additional wires connecting each house. Our host pours the men coffee as the women go to the side of the house to greet his wife and children. He tells us 14 live in his 200 square meter house and the man next to him has 23 people in his house.

Although we dropped in unannounced, the room quickly fills with other men who want to meet his visitors. As we prepare to leave, he asks us if we will return tomorrow because he’d like to host us for dinner! Sami tells us, “Please just tell him thank you (in Arabic) and I’ll respond to him.” These people are the salt of the earth and we are honored that they can receive us as friends. They may never meet the Governor while he will entertain us later in the week. Something to ponder as we close another full day.