Bridge Building: Day
7 In Iraq. By Steve Clemens
The day started with Kathy getting fashion tips from Hiba.
She fixes Kathy’s hijab first and then goes to adjust Joan’s but decides Joan
has already learned how to do it the proper way! Although Fr. David has a lot
of experience in Palestine, Iraq, and other Middle Eastern locations, one of
the staff at the guest house insists on wearing the keffeyah differently. David
allows for the adjustment although I’m sure it was just a matter of local
preference.
After an hour of shopping in the souk of the old city, we
were invited to lunch at the Guest House of the Shrine of Ali. A simple meal,
very tasty and sufficient. Then we are told that our friend Zuhair wishes to
greet us nearby. I knew Zuhair as the head of the Najaf Chamber of Commerce,
but he seems to wear many hats around here. After being escorted into the large
reception room behind the Shrine of Imam Ali, we are served tea, water, and
coffee as we sat around visiting. Then Zuhair shows us the model of the
on-going and planned construction around the Shrine to accommodate the millions
of visitors who come each year. Under Saddam there was little improvements
allowed in this section of the bold city we are told but since 2005 there are
ambitious plans for improvements to this third holiest site for Shia Muslims.
Zuhair also gifts us with a book translating a message from Imam Ali about the
role and style of leadership before inviting us to his office upstairs. Only
then does it dawn on me that having an office in this building means he has a
very significant role at the Shire and we learn he is on the Board of Directors
and is helping oversee part of the $600 million construction project using his
capacity as an engineer and businessman.
After a very engaging visit with him, we hustle back to our
transport vehicles to get to the bridge crossing the Euphrates in Kufa for our
Bridge Vigil in solidarity with the on-going Lake Street Bridge Vigil which
happens every Wednesday afternoon/evening in Minneapolis. I brought along a
rainbow striped “PEACE” flag and the Muslim Peacemaker Team had numerous other
banners made with messages such as “Plant a Tree … Harvest Peace”, “Iraqi
people are our brothers and sisters”, “Minneapolis is our Sister City”, Najaf
is our Sister City”, “If you want peace, join us”, “Peace begins with me … and
You”, “Kindness is Charity”, “Allah is Peace … Peace is Islam”.
On the bridge, traffic moved slowly so I was able to call
out “Salaam” or “Salaam Alekium”, peace and peace be upon you, smiling broadly
in friendship and hope. Several stopped and asked where I was from and I told
them “America” and the at-first puzzled look gradually turned to a smile and
the young man said, “Good! shukran” (thank you). I remembered my inaugural
demonstration in Baghdad almost 10 years ago in front of the United Nations
Development Office shortly before President Bush commenced this destructive
war. We were supporting Hans Blix and the UN weapons inspectors rather than the
mad rush to war. I held a “No War” sign on Abu Nuwas Street facing the traffic
on that busy Baghdad artery and saw faces smile and horns blowing in support. I
had the same feeling tonight, looking into the faces of Iraqis, no longer an “enemy”
as we work hard to become both friends and peacemakers together. With the able
partnership of the Muslim Peacemaker Team we are making inroads in our demands
for a culture od peace. We can always use more “fellow travelers” on the road
to reconciliation. 
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